Scandinavian Advent Calendar Day 24
Welcome to Christmas in the heart of Copenhagen, dear friends. Before you lies Tivoli Gardens dressed in its finest party attire, transformed into something that exists halfway between dream and reality—a place where the boundary between childhood wonder and adult appreciation dissolves completely.
Tivoli is the third-oldest operating amusement park in the world, opened in 1843 in the Danish capital by Georg Carstensen, a charismatic entrepreneur who understood something essential about human nature. He obtained permission from King Christian VIII to construct the park by making a shrewdly pragmatic argument: “When the people are amusing themselves, they do not think about politics.” The king, navigating the turbulent political currents of mid-nineteenth-century Europe, apparently found this reasoning persuasive.
From its inception, Tivoli offered extraordinary variety: buildings constructed in the exotic style of an imaginary Orient, drawing on European fantasies of distant lands; a theater for performances; bandstands for concerts; restaurants and cafés serving everything from simple fare to elaborate dinners; meticulously maintained flower gardens; and mechanical amusement rides including a merry-go-round and a primitive scenic railway that must have seemed thrillingly modern at the time.
After dark, colored lamps illuminated the gardens—a spectacle in an era before electric lighting became commonplace. On certain evenings, specially designed fireworks reflected in Tivoli’s lake, a remnant of the moat that had once surrounded Copenhagen’s fortifications. The effect must have been magical, and in truth, it still is.
Tivoli has continually evolved without abandoning its original charm or foundational traditions. Georg Carstensen himself said in 1844: “Tivoli will never, so to speak, be finished”—a philosophy of perpetual renewal and reinvention. Just over a century later, Walt Disney echoed this sentiment about his own Tivoli-inspired creation: “Disneyland will never be completed. It will continue to grow as long as there is imagination left in the world.” Disney had visited Tivoli multiple times and drew direct inspiration from its combination of gardens, entertainment, dining, and rides—the prototype for the modern theme park.
Christmas transforms Tivoli into something even more enchanted than usual. Beautiful Christmas trees shimmer with thousands of lights in every color, their reflections dancing in the lake. Illuminations pierce the December darkness, turning night into a glowing wonderland. Vendor stalls overflow with Christmas delicacies: æbleskiver (spherical pancakes dusted with powdered sugar), roasted almonds, mulled wine, risalamande, gingerbread in every conceivable form. The Tivoli Youth Guard—a beloved institution of young musicians in striking uniforms—fills the gardens with magnificent music, their performances adding pageantry and warmth to the cold evening air.
My evening visit felt like stepping into an enchanted realm where only joy and laughter are permitted entry. The gardens overflowed with people—young children wide-eyed with wonder, teenagers laughing in groups, couples walking hand-in-hand, elderly visitors smiling at memories of Christmases past. Everyone, regardless of age, seemed to be marveling at the Christmas dream created to spark the festive spirit in all of us. There’s something profoundly moving about witnessing collective delight, about being part of a crowd united not by politics or commerce but simply by shared appreciation of beauty and celebration.
As we reach the end of our Scandinavian Advent Calendar, I find myself filled with joy and gratitude for the extraordinary journey this has been. We’ve traveled through fourteen remarkable books that carried us not only across five countries but through centuries of culture and tradition. We’ve discovered delicious food and learned from the particular wisdom the North has cultivated through long practice with darkness and cold, with making beauty from austerity, with finding light when light is scarce.
It has been my profound pleasure to read, research, travel, and cook so that we could share this special month of December together. You’ve been wonderful companions on this northern journey, and I’m grateful for every comment, every shared memory, every moment of connection across distances.
All my wishes of light and joy go out to you tonight. May your holidays be blessed with the brightest of smiles, the warmest of gatherings, and the quietest of peaceful moments when you need them. May you carry forward some small piece of what we’ve discovered together—a recipe, perhaps, or a book recommendation, or simply the reminder that even in the darkest season, we can create our own light.
Until next year, dear friends—happy Christmas, and may your new year unfold with all the magic and possibility you dare to imagine.
Glædelig jul !
GleĂ°ileg jĂłl !
God jul !
Hyvää joulua !
TIVOLI GARDENS CHRISTMAS GUIDE:
About Tivoli:
- Founded: 1843 by Georg Carstensen
- Location: Central Copenhagen, across from main railway station
- Rank: Third-oldest operating amusement park in world (after Dyrehavsbakken in Denmark and Wurstelprater in Austria)
- Size: 82,717 square meters (about 20 acres)
- Inspiration: Directly inspired Walt Disney’s creation of Disneyland
Christmas Season:
- Dates: Mid-November through early January (usually Nov 16 – Jan 5)
- Hours: 11am-11pm most days (extended hours weekends and holidays)
- Admission: Separate ticket required – book them on their website in advance (ride tickets additional or unlimited ride pass)
- Special events: Concerts, parades, Youth Guard performances
What to Experience:
Atmosphere:
- Over 1,000 Christmas trees throughout the gardens
- Millions of twinkling lights creating magical illumination
- Traditional Danish Christmas market stalls
- Nightly concerts and performances
- Fireworks on select evenings
Food & Drink:
- Æbleskiver – Traditional spherical Danish pancakes
- Gløgg – Danish mulled wine
- Risalamande – Rice pudding dessert
- Flæskesteg – Roast pork sandwich, Danish Christmas classic
- Brændende kærlighed – “Burning love” mashed potato dish
- Numerous restaurants from casual to fine dining
Activities:
- Historic wooden roller coaster (from 1914)
- Carousel and vintage rides
- Modern thrill rides
- Christmas market shopping
- Ice skating (some years)
- Meeting Santa Claus
- Tivoli Youth Guard performances
Tips for Visiting:
Timing:
- Weekday afternoons less crowded than evenings/weekends
- Arrive before dark to see gardens in daylight, stay for illuminations
- First two weeks of December less packed than final week before Christmas
- After Christmas through New Year also magical with fewer crowds
What to Bring:
- Warm layers – you’ll be outside for hours
- Comfortable walking shoes
- Cash for some vendors (though most accept cards)
- Camera – every corner is photogenic
- Reusable cup for drinks (some vendors offer discount)
For Children:
- Many gentle rides suitable for young children
- Meet Santa in his grotto
- Special children’s performances and activities
- Stroller-friendly paths (though crowded)
Dining:
- Reserve restaurants in advance for sit-down meals
- Many quick-service options throughout park
- Pick up traditional treats from market stalls
- Several restaurants offer traditional Danish Christmas buffet (julefrokost)
TIVOLI THROUGH HISTORY:
Famous Visitors:
- Hans Christian Andersen (frequent visitor, inspired his writing)
- Walt Disney (visited multiple times, inspired Disneyland)
- Countless Danish royals across generations
- International celebrities and dignitaries
Cultural Significance:
- Integral part of Danish cultural identity
- Survived WWII (miraculously, given Copenhagen’s occupation)
- Represents Danish approach to hygge and quality of life
- Model for theme parks worldwide
Evolution:
- Continuous renovation and addition of rides
- Preservation of historic elements alongside modern attractions
- Balance between nostalgia and innovation
- Remains family-owned and operated
SCANDINAVIAN ADVENT CALENDAR: A REFLECTION
Over these 24 days, we’ve journeyed through:
- Five countries: Denmark, Sweden, Norway, Iceland, Finland
- Fourteen books: From contemporary fiction to ancient sagas
- Countless traditions: Food, crafts, celebrations, wisdom
- One central theme: Finding light in darkness, creating warmth in cold, choosing joy even when joy requires effort
Thank you for walking this northern path with me. May you carry something of Scandinavia’s particular magic forward into your new year.
Written by Alexandra Poppy
Writer, reader & curator of The Ritual of Reading
I’m Alexandra, the voice behind The Ritual of Reading. Somewhere between a stack of novels and a half-finished pot of tea, I keep finding traces of the life I want to live—slower, richer, filled with stories. The Ritual of Reading is where I gather what I love: books that linger, places with a past, and rituals that make ordinary days feel a little more meaningful. I write from Paris, where elegant bookshops and old-fashioned cafĂ©s offer endless inspiration—and I share it here, hoping it brings a spark to your own days, too.
