The Ritual Master Hello friends, and welcome back to our Medieval Advent Calendar. Today we’re heading back into the kitchen to make something of a simple dish for the XIIth century, that could make a very chic starter in the XXIst.
All of the French medieval cookbooks mention a recipe with variations of ingredients yet the same name : porée. Either a thick soup or a vegetable mash, the classic porée uses leeks stewed down to a purée, which is exactly what travelled across to England as a leek broth called porray up until the 17th century when it morphed into porridge. Then around the year 1640 the meaning also changed into “food made by slowly stirring meal or flour of oats into water or milk while boiling till a thick mass is formed”.
It’s funny how many parts of Europe had forgotten most of the root vegetables after the start of mass potato production. Here in France, root vegetables like parsnips, rutabaga, Jerusalem artichokes have made a comeback in the last decade, and are often called légumes anciennes, old vegetables. Nature has its balance, when the winter frost wipes out everything on the surface of the garden, down in the soil, root vegetables become sweeter and perfect for cooking. That’s when an ancient cookbook comes in handy.
Today’s recipe comes from a 14th century cookbook and uses an unusual combination of ingredients : parsnips, almond milk, gruyère cheese and nutmeg (I’ve changed it a little, but you can follow the original if you like). Cultivated in Europe from the time of the Roman empire, the parsnip is related to the carrot, though sweeter in taste and with a more aromatic profile. Rich in potassium and several B vitamins, it is an essential source of dietary fiber which can help with blood cholesterol among other things. This was, of course, unknown during the Middle Ages as such, but herbalists and healers had an empirical knowledge of these things.
In an aromatic salty herb broth of bay leaves, thyme and allspice, I cook the peeled parsnips and rutabaga until the knife goes through with ease. Then drain them and mix either by hand or with a hand mixer, together with the almond milk and the nutmeg powder. Season with some salt and pepper, then serve traditionally with grated cheese on top or like me, simply with some toasted slivered almonds. If you wish, some grilled bacon bits on top can make this even more festive. A more liquid version could be a starter, while the thicker one can accompany any festive roast for your Christmas feast.
Until tomorrow, bonne dégustation !
