There is something almost poetic about a vegetable that requires absolute darkness to find its sweetness. The chicon doesn’t seek the sun; it waits in the damp, quiet winter of a Belgian cellar, tightly furled and patient, until it is ready to become the “white gold” of the kitchen. This recipe is the culmination of that patience—a transformative ritual where we strip away the lingering bitterness of the core and replace it with the creamy, nutmeg-scented embrace of a proper béchamel.
In every Belgian home, the assembly of this gratin marks a quiet shift in the season. It is a slow, methodical process: the gentle boiling, the careful recomposing of the leaves, and the tucking of each endive into its blanket of ham like a child into bed. As the cheese bubbles and browns in the oven, the kitchen fills with an aroma that acts as a defiant antidote to the grey drizzle outside. It is more than just a meal; it is the taste of home, perfected through generations of people who understood that the best things often happen in the dark, and that some comforts are worth the wait.
![pinit](https://www.pinterest.com/pin/create/button/?url=https://theritualofreading.com/chicons-au-gratin//&media=https://theritualofreading.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/12/DSC03246-1024x577.jpg&description=Chicons%20au%20Gratin:%20Belgian%20"White%20Gold")
Description
This is the quintessential Belgian comfort dish. By boiling the endives and removing the bitter core, we transform this often-misunderstood vegetable into something buttery and mild. Wrapped in savory ham and smothered in a nutmeg-heavy béchamel, it is winter soul food at its finest.
Ingredients
For the endives :
For the Béchamel sauce :
Instructions
- Prepare the Endives: Cut each endive in half lengthwise. Using a small paring knife, carefully carve out the tough, cone-shaped white core at the base—this is where the majority of the bitterness resides.
- The Gentle Boil: Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the endive halves and reduce to a simmer. Cook for 5-10 minutes until the leaves are completely tender and translucent.
- Drain and Recompose: This is the crucial step. Drain the endives in a colander and let them sit for a few minutes to shed excess water. Gently press them to remove any trapped liquid. Now, recompose the leaves: take the halves and press them back together to recreate the shape of 6 whole endives.
- Make the Roux: In a medium saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. Stir in the flour and cook for 1–2 minutes, stirring constantly, until the paste (roux) is golden and smells slightly nutty.
- Build the Béchamel: Gradually whisk in the milk. Start with a splash, whisking until smooth, then add the rest in two batches. Continue to stir until the sauce thickens and coats the back of a spoon.
- Season: Stir in the nutmeg, salt, and pepper. Taste—the nutmeg should be warm and prominent.
- The Wrap: Lay out a slice of ham. Place one “recomposed” endive at the edge and roll it up tightly like a blanket. Repeat for all 6 endives.
- Assemble: Arrange the ham-wrapped endives in a buttered baking dish, tucked closely together. Pour the béchamel sauce generously over the top, ensuring the ham is completely covered.
- Bake: Place in an oven preheated to 180°C / 356°F for 20–25 minutes. You are looking for a bubbling sauce and a deeply bronzed, golden crust on top.
- Serve: Let it rest for 5 minutes before serving. This dish is traditionally served with creamy mashed potatoes to soak up the extra béchamel.
Optional : you can spread some grated cheese on top, I prefer to keep the béchamel alone.
Notes
- The Squeeze: Don’t be afraid to gently squeeze the boiled endives. Endives hold a lot of water, and if you don’t drain them well, your béchamel will turn watery in the oven!
