In the windswept Irish coastal town of Ballinacroagh, where Marsha Mehran’s three Iranian sisters seek refuge and renewal, the arrival of spring carries both promise and memory—the promise of fresh beginnings and the bittersweet memory of Nowruz celebrations in a homeland they can never return to. Inspired by their story, I imagined another Persian soup, this Ash Reshteh, emerald-green with hope and fragrant with the herbs of remembrance.
Like the sisters themselves—Marjan, Bahar, and Layla—this ancient Persian soup carries complexity beneath its humble appearance. The triumvirate of beans (lentils, chickpeas, kidney beans) provides sustenance as reliable as family bonds, while the extraordinary abundance of fresh herbs—parsley, chives, dill—transforms the ordinary into something magical. Seven cups of chopped greens may seem excessive to the uninitiated, but like the sisters’ generous hearts, this soup believes in abundance, in the healing power of too much rather than too little.
The spinach leaves, wilted into jade-dark silk, speak of renewal after winter’s harshness—much like the sisters finding their courage to open the Babylon Café despite the suspicious glances of their new neighbors. When the soup is partially blended, leaving some texture, some stories intact, it mirrors how the sisters navigate their new life: some memories smooth and integrated, others remaining whole and distinct, all of them precious.
But it’s in the toppings where the true magic lives—where exile becomes celebration. The kashk, that pungent paste diluted with golden saffron essence, carries the concentrated flavor of home, while the fried mint crackles with the kind of joy that transforms a simple meal into a feast. Each spoonful delivers not just nourishment but narrative: the tangy brightness of fermented dairy, the warm earthiness of turmeric, the surprising sweetness that emerges when herbs are treated with proper reverence.
This is more than soup—it’s sanctuary in a bowl, the kind of dish that builds bridges between the suspicious and the scared, between those who fear change and those who embody it. Like the sisters’ gradual acceptance by their Irish neighbors, ash reshteh reveals its treasures slowly: first the comforting warmth, then the complexity of flavors, finally the understanding that some gifts from foreign kitchens are too precious to resist.
Best served warm with fresh bread, open hearts, and the kind of patience that allows strangers to become friends over shared meals and stories.
Description
This rich, aromatic soup is a celebration of spring, much like the Nowruz festivities it traditionally accompanies. Like the heartwarming stories in Marsha Mehran’s Pomegranate Soup, this dish is a comforting blend of familiar elements and exotic flavors. A verdant mix of fresh herbs, hearty beans, and satisfying noodles creates a nourishing and soulful dish—a taste of Persian home cooking that feels both ancient and completely new.
Ingredients
For the Soup :
For the Toppings :
Instructions
- Sauté the onion: In a large, heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the sliced onion and sauté slowly until it becomes soft and beautifully caramelized, about 15-20 minutes. Stir in the turmeric, salt, and pepper and cook for another minute until fragrant.
- Add greens and liquid: Add the chopped fresh herbs and spinach to the pot. Stir to combine with the onions. Add the water or vegetable broth and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer, cover, and cook for about 20 minutes to soften the greens.
- Partially blend (optional): For a slightly smoother, thicker soup, use a hand blender to partially purée the soup. Blend just enough to break down some of the spinach and herbs while leaving plenty of chunky texture.
- Add beans and noodles: Stir in the rinsed and drained chickpeas, kidney beans, and lentils. Add the broken linguini noodles. Cook for another 10-15 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent the noodles from sticking, until the noodles are al dente.
- Prepare the toppings: While the soup simmers, prepare the toppings. In a small pan, heat the olive oil until shimmering. Add the dried mint and immediately remove the pan from the heat. The mint will sizzle and become fragrant instantly. Be careful not to let it burn.
- Serve: Ladle the hot soup into bowls. Drizzle with the diluted kashk (or yogurt/sour cream), followed by the fried mint. Serve hot.
A Note from The Literary Kitchen
This bowl of ash reshteh feels like a chapter of its own—full of warmth, layered with flavor, and ultimately a source of profound comfort. Like the story of the three sisters in The Pomegranate Soup, it is a celebration of home, heritage, and the beautiful chaos that happens when different elements come together.
If you make your own version, I’d love to see it! Share your creation on Instagram with the hashtag #RitualOfReadingFood and tag @ritual_of_reading. Let’s share our favorite comforting bowls, each with its own delicious story to tell.
Written by Alexandra Poppy
Writer, reader & curator of The Ritual of Reading
I’m Alexandra, the voice behind The Ritual of Reading. Somewhere between a stack of novels and a half-finished pot of tea, I keep finding traces of the life I want to live—slower, richer, filled with stories. The Ritual of Reading is where I gather what I love: books that linger, places with a past, and rituals that make ordinary days feel a little more meaningful. I write from Paris, where elegant bookshops and old-fashioned cafés offer endless inspiration—and I share it here, hoping it brings a spark to your own days, too.
