Advent Calendar Day 24
We have arrived at the end of our Advent Calendar, dear friends. It’s been a joy beyond measure to share my December preparations and discoveries with you each evening, and I hope I’ve managed to bring a small sparkle of Christmas magic into your homes—a moment of pause, a breath of beauty, a reminder that this season can still enchant us if we let it.
For tonight, I’ve saved my most precious adventure of the month: a visit to the fairytale town of Colmar in the Alsace region of France. The Christmas market here dates from the sixteenth century, and with an old town preserved so lovingly, you can easily imagine the atmosphere four hundred years ago—merchants setting up wooden stalls, the scent of roasting chestnuts and spiced wine drifting through narrow streets, lanterns casting warm pools of light against half-timbered houses.
Alsace occupies a unique position at the crossroads between Germany and France, and this cultural intersection has made it the keeper of some of Europe’s most enduring Christmas traditions. The cobblestone streets remember everything; you need only pay attention. I loved getting lost in the maze of holiday enchantment, turning corner after corner to discover new delights. Everywhere I looked, a smiling face reminded me of the Christmas stories I’d been reading all month—characters stepped out of pages and made flesh, the world briefly conforming to the shape of our most hopeful imaginings.
The streets overflow with people, and you might be tempted to dismiss it all as commercial spectacle, designed merely to sell enormous quantities of sweets and souvenirs, to extract euros from tourists in exchange for mass-produced sentiment. I understand the cynicism—I’ve felt it myself. But if you pause for a moment and truly look around, you’ll notice something remarkable: everyone around you is simply happy.
Is it the mulled wine warming their hands and loosening their spirits? Is it the Christmas atmosphere, that particular alchemy of lights and music and shared anticipation? We’ll never know for certain. But one thing remains undeniable: this enormous mass of people moving in constant flow like trout in a mountain stream has collectively lifted the vibration of this place through their enthusiasm and uncomplicated joy in looking at beautiful things. There’s something profound in that—in allowing ourselves pleasure without irony, in choosing wonder over world-weariness, in gathering together not for any practical purpose but simply to celebrate.
This is my understanding of the Christmas spirit: a moment when we permit ourselves to remember our childish capacity for delight and invite it back into our adult lives to brighten the long December nights. It’s not about religion or commerce, tradition or innovation—it’s about choosing, deliberately and consciously, to make space for joy.
As we close this Advent journey together, I wish you a serene and blessed holiday season, filled with good books and delightful rituals to accompany them. May you find moments of quiet amid the chaos, beauty in unexpected places, and reasons to smile that have nothing to do with productivity or accomplishment. May you be gentle with yourself and generous with others. May you remember that magic still exists if we’re willing to see it.
From my soul to yours, dear friends—happy Christmas, however you choose to celebrate or not celebrate. Thank you for walking this December path with me. Until we meet again.
COLMAR CHRISTMAS MARKET GUIDE:
About Colmar:
- Location: Alsace region, northeastern France
- Population: About 70,000
- Known as: “Little Venice” for its canal district
- Architecture: Remarkably preserved medieval and Renaissance half-timbered houses
- Cultural position: Historically between French and German influence
Christmas Markets: Colmar actually hosts multiple markets throughout the old town, each with its own character:
Main Markets:
- Place des Dominicains – Traditional crafts and regional products
- Place de l’Ancienne Douane – Food, wine, and local specialties
- Place Jeanne d’Arc – Children’s market with carousel and activities
- Koïfhus Market – Alsatian products and artisan goods
- Little Venice – Romantic setting along the canals
When:
- Opens: Late November (usually around November 22-23)
- Closes: December 29th (or December 30th, varies by year)
- Hours: Typically 10am-8pm (later on weekends)
- Best time to visit: Weekday afternoons to avoid weekend crowds
What to Experience:
Food & Drink:
- Vin chaud (mulled wine) – The essential market beverage
- Bredele – Traditional Alsatian Christmas cookies
- Pain d’épices – Gingerbread from this region’s long tradition
- Mannele – Brioche shaped like little men
- Flammekueche – Alsatian thin-crust pizza
- Roasted chestnuts – From street vendors
- Foie gras – Alsace specialty
Crafts & Decorations:
- Hand-blown glass ornaments
- Wooden nutcrackers and decorations
- Traditional Alsatian pottery
- Handmade textiles and linens
- Local wines and spirits
Practical Tips:
Getting There:
- Train: Direct from Paris (2.5 hours), Strasbourg (30 min), Basel (45 min)
- Car: Easy parking outside old town, then walk or shuttle
- Airport: Closest major airports are Basel-Mulhouse-Freiburg or Strasbourg
Where to Stay:
- Book accommodation months in advance—Colmar is extremely popular
- Consider staying in nearby villages for better rates
- Many charming boutique hotels in old town
What to Bring:
- Warm layers – markets are outdoors
- Comfortable walking shoes for cobblestones
- Cash – many vendors don’t accept cards
- Camera – every corner is a memory worthy of keeping
Crowd Management:
- Visit weekdays if possible
- Early morning (10-11am) or late afternoon (after 5pm) less crowded
- Weekends and evenings before Christmas are packed
- Consider visiting early December rather than late
- In the end, embrace the crowd – where else do you get to meet so many people filled with the joy of Christmas ?
Beyond the Markets:
- Unterlinden Museum – World-class art including Isenheim Altarpiece
- Petite Venise – Canal district, beautiful year-round
- Pfister House – Iconic painted medieval building
- Bartholdi Museum – Honoring creator of Statue of Liberty
Nearby:
- Riquewihr – Another stunning Alsatian village with market (20 min)
- Eguisheim – Circular medieval village, very charming (10 min)
- Strasbourg – Larger city with Europe’s oldest Christmas market (1 hour)
- Alsace Wine Route – Villages and vineyards (throughout region)
THE ALSATIAN CHRISTMAS TRADITION:
Alsace has cultivated Christmas traditions for centuries, influenced by both French and German cultures:
- Origins of the Christmas tree: Modern Christmas tree tradition originated in Alsace
- Advent wreaths: Also Alsatian in origin
- Christmas markets: Among Europe’s oldest and most authentic
- Bredele cookies: Baking tradition going back centuries
- Saint Nicholas celebrations: December 6th processions and gifts
The region’s position at a cultural crossroads created something unique: traditions that feel both French and German yet distinctly Alsatian.
Written by Alexandra Poppy
Writer, reader & curator of The Ritual of Reading
I’m Alexandra, the voice behind The Ritual of Reading. Somewhere between a stack of novels and a half-finished pot of tea, I keep finding traces of the life I want to live—slower, richer, filled with stories. The Ritual of Reading is where I gather what I love: books that linger, places with a past, and rituals that make ordinary days feel a little more meaningful. I write from Paris, where elegant bookshops and old-fashioned cafés offer endless inspiration—and I share it here, hoping it brings a spark to your own days, too.
