The Ritual Master Hello everyone, and welcome to one of our very last Advent videos. Time flies !
I wanted to share with you an unexpected read, one of the many happy coincidences of my Austrian project. I find the history of fashion, both from an aesthetic and an anthropologic point of view, fascinating. So I was very excited to find out that the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York had organised an exhibition called The Imperial Style : Fashions of the Habsburg Era back in December of 1979. It was a great success at the time, and was accompanied by a publication that is out of print, but made available for free by the MET on their website.
Other than the priceless illustrations that I spent hours contemplating, the essays are gripping. You get to learn about beauty ideals from the time of Maria Theresa right up to the Wiener Werkstätte in the 20th century, with just enough history to get you situated in time, but also lifestyle details and little anecdotes that make this such an unforgettable read. I especially enjoyed the Viennese Biedermeier Fashion chapter written by Helga Kessler, as well as the one on the evolution of the Hungarian national costume. But it was equally interesting to learn about men’s fashion or court dress, frankly every single chapter of this books was of immense value for someone trying to better understand Viennese lifestyle through the intermediary of fashion. I highly recommend you have a look, this is an incredible free ressource online that you can access by clicking HERE.
When in Vienna, you have a few (limited) options of looking at historic costumes. The Sissi Museum in the Hofburg Palace, and the great Schönnbrun Palace both include some historic gowns of their illustrious inhabitants. But neither of them allow photos, since so many visitors forget to turn off their flash and end up damaging the art, especially the textiles. My choice was the Imperial Treasure collections, with a specifically targeted subject : official gowns worn for coronations or other formal court functions. The Imperial Treasure also includes some breathtaking jewellery, so wherever you look there is something to marvel at.
The styles and priorities of nations have changed throughout the centuries, but I think it will come as no surprise that someone as passionate about rituals as myself, finds the idea of imperial ceremony to be captivating. Not just for the fairy tale allure they have, but also for the essential values they represent in society. These carefully embroidered capes, gowns and mantels were made to represent power and wealth in the eyes of those looking, but for the person wearing them, they were a symbol of great responsibility. The day they were wearing this, the weight of the world was on their shoulders, the faith of a nation was in their hands. The vast riches they had inherited could become even vaster, or could disappear in a moment. All of this makes sitting in front of the glass cases an almost solemn moment. This type of beauty is not futile or fleeting, but everlasting and soul-uplifting. Something to contemplate in a season of introspection and generosity.
Until tomorrow, happy Advent !
