The Ritual Master Hello friends and Merry Christmas ! For this festive day we’re hopping on a train from Paris to visit the yearly Christmas market in the medieval town of Provins. You might remember we’ve already visited the Saint Ayoul priory here, for the Medieval Book Prize of 2024, and now we’re back for an even more festive escape.
Provins is a small town just 77 km south east of Paris. Located today in the Île-de-France region, the greater Paris metropolitan area if you wish, in the olden days, it was part of the Champagne county, and is documented as being the most important market town of Medieval Champagne, even the third most important city of the old Kingdom of the Francs, behind Paris and Rouen. An essential meeting place between merchants and people of all social backgrounds, Provins keeps the memory of its market past and organises each year, a festive week-end dedicated to the Christmas Market.
I’m what you would call a frequent flyer of the European Christmas markets, yet even I was surprised by the atmosphere I found here. The commerce is entirely themed around the medieval market, and you can find anything from ceramics to wooden objects, fine leather accessories, stone garden decor, jewelry, terracotta tiles and even musical instruments to relive the authentic medieval entertainment.
The blacksmith’s booth is particularly animated, since they explain every step of the process. Here, they were making a bespoke buckle for a young woman, and took her design suggestions to the letter, all the while making jokes and entertaining the audience. And speaking of the audience, I was completely surprised by the number of civilians, people who came just like me to experience the market and were not involved in any way in the organising committee, who came in period costume. I felt like I travelled back in time, and discovered this whole community I had no idea existed, who are so passionate about a historic revival of the Middle Ages.
The food booths were mouthwatering, from roasted chestnuts and spiced walnuts, to baked goods that might not look the most appealing, but are entirely authentic, as the bakers will gladly explain, grilled meats and sausages, mulled wine, hypocras, hydromel or honey wine and of course the enchanting spice dealer. Enormous gingerbread cakes were infusing the cold winter air with their aromas, and you felt the joy of the people passing by, despite a grey and freezing winter day.
One of the most emblematic landmarks of medieval Provins is the Cesar Tower, the only known octagonal keep with a square base, dating from the 12th century. When the night falls over the Christmas market, the tower becomes the north star, to find your way in the crowd. The fire keeps the mulled wine hot in the cauldrons, and makes the evening sparkle with medieval charm.
This is the perfect place to end our Medieval Advent Calendar, after 24 days of time travel between novels and stone walls, unknown flavours and enchanting songs. We have explored the Middle Ages with 20 books read between 4 museums, two cathedrals and one abbey, tasted food and wine that made everything seem present, rather than 1000 years old. Our guide was a Queen, a woman who’s strength and vision made our world today, possible. Reading about her life has been not only a revelation on medieval life, but an inspiration for the present, to boldly live our lives as if failure was impossible.
Thank you for having been my trusted travel companions, your presence and enthusiasm for this fourth Advent Calendar I have imagined, have been my greatest gift.
May your holiday season bring joy and warmth, great books and wonderful reading companions.
Merry Christmas everyone !
